Clearly, the local carvers knew what it feels like to go out walking in Port Moresby by yourself …..
I have just had a couple of quick days in Port Moresby with my ‘day’ job, and found myself in a town where you actually can’t just get out and walk around, due to safety and security concerns caused by the ‘raskols’ – groups of unemployed young men. The situation is particularly bad for women: both locals and visitors. Everyone is hustled from A to B in cars with locked doors and windows wound up, as car jacking is not uncommon. In the evening, the streets are empty apart from groups of young men hanging around on street corners, and people don’t venture outside their hotels and homes, which are behind tall security fences. Fear can breed paranoia (and black humour: one of the expatriate compounds is affectionately known as ‘Camp S**t-Scared’), but of course many people do live there very happily and accommodate their lives around these constraints, and the Papua New Guineans I met were unremittingly kind, friendly and helpful. Outside of Moresby, the security situation is much different, and the country itself is fascinating and beautiful. However, it really struck me how I take the freedom to just go out and walk for granted, but that for some people, this is not the case. Papua New Guinea is actually home to one of the world’s most iconic long distance walks (certainly for Australians): the 100km+ Kokoda Track, which goes up into the mountains north of Port Moresby. A lung-busting pilgrimage for many of the trekkers walking in the footsteps of their WWII relatives, this demanding trek can only be undertaken with licensed commercial operators.
Tantalising view of Port Moresby port and islands beyond from my window…..
Melbourne Walks 
Wow, you certainly get around! Weren’t you in Wales not long ago?!
You know what? Non-walkers at work when they find out I hike always invariably ask, “Are you going to do the Kokoda Track?” It seems to be the only walk anyone who doesn’t walk knows about. It’s all subjective though, but I couldn’t think of a worse hike! In those big groups pushing through the jungle with the locals carrying your pack. It’s a pity one can’t go there with only a couple of people and give it a go…
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Hey Greg – yes, am pretty lucky that my job gets me out and about a fair bit, though not usually with time for a walk thrown in unfortunately. I was up at my local Kathmandu shop this week, and one of the blokes there, Dan, is actually a guide on the Kokoda Track and has walked it 6 times in the last year. But you’re right, you do have to go with licensed operators as far as I can tell, so that means in groups. Kokoda has never appealed to me either, though I know it is pretty special for many. I spent 3 months in Malaysian Borneo aeons ago, much of that walking in slogging mud and leaf mould through some incredible rainforest – the highlight of which was Gunung Mulu National Park and the limestone pinnacles, where my other half and I went with one guide and no porters. It was absolutely worth the effort, but it was HARD and I mean VERY HARD, slogging up steep mountains through mud and leeches in baking humidity and rain….
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wow, Port Moresby looks amazing! Would love to go there someday 🙂
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Hi City Of The Week – thanks for having a look around my blog! Port Moresby is surreal – I think the real interest is in the highlands and along the coast, which are still remarkable untouched in many places.
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